Food and Aviation in the Twentieth Century: The Pan American Ideal

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Established by New York stockbroker Juan Trippe in 1927, the story of Pan Am is the story of US-led globalisation and imperial expansion in the twentieth century, with the airline achieving the vast majority of firsts in aviation history, pioneering transoceanic travel and new technologies, and all but creating the glitz, style and ambience eulogised in Frank Sinatras Come Fly with Me. Bryce Evans investigates an aspect of the airline service that was central to the companys success, its food; a gourmet glamour underpinned by both serious science and attention to the detail of fine dining culture. Modelled on the elite dining experience of the great ocean liners, the first transatlantic and transpacific flights featured formal thirteen course dinners served in art deco cabins and served by waiters in white waist-length jackets and garrison hats. As flight times got faster and altitudes higher, Pan Am pioneered the design of hot food galleys and commissioned research into how altitude and pressure affected taste buds, amending menus accordingly. A tale of collaboration with chefs from the best Parisian restaurants and the wining and dining of politicians and film stars, the book also documents what food service was like for flight attendants, exploring how the golden age of airline dining was underpinned by a racist and sexist culture. Written accessibly and with an eye for the glamour and razzamatazz of public aviation history, Bryce Evans' research into Pan Am airways will be valuable for scholars of food studies and aviation, consumer, tourism, transport and 20th century American history.

Reviews

A fascinating history This new book charts the unexpected significance of in-flight meals; yes, flight attendants used to reheat Michelin-starred coq-au-vin, but there is a more significant narrative running through the book. The postwar period saw the US rise to global predominance, an age of globalisation, of an identikit Western culture. It was the 'American century', and, as Evans shows, Pan Am was crucial in its development. * The Telegraph *
This book tells the story of how Pan Am collaborated with French chefs if you want to know more about the 'sandwich war' between Pan Am and SAS [read this book]. * Seattle Times *
So much for the golden age of air travel! This book lays bare the fascinating lives of air hostesses who worked on board American airline Pan Am Dr Evans reveals how stewardesses were subjected to regular weight checks, hired and fired based on their appearance and denied work if they were mothers theres more to the so-called golden age of air travel than you might expect! * Daily Mail *
The dark side of the glamorous airline finally revealed the airlines stringent beauty standards meant you could even lose your job over something as simple as gaining a little bit of weight. * Daily Express *
This is Evanss greatest triumph in this slim volume: he answers not only whats the deal with airline food but also why do we continue to ask whats the deal with airline food His approach to these questions makes Food and Aviation in the Twentieth Century a useful text for historians of technology, cultural historians of travel, and food studies scholars interested in the transformation of taste over the twentieth century. * H-Net Reviews *
Food and Aviation in the Twentieth Century is inclusive in its coverage of the cultural, social, political, and economic aspects of Pan Ams food service between the early and late twentieth century, while certainly not lacking in its gendered analysis of dining experiences ... [it] will undoubtedly be useful for historians of technology, as well as food studies scholars interested in the evolution of in-flight culinary technology. * Technology and Culture *
This book is a wonderful addition to the airline literature. By focusing on food aboard the worlds one-time premier airline, Pan American World Airways, Bryce Evans serves up a crucial portrait of one of the major players in the development of Americas empire. * Christine R Yano, Professor of Anthropology, University of Hawaii, USA *
Having had the pleasure of reading this, I would recommend anyone interested in food, aviation or technology to do the same. * Professor Matthew Smith, University of Strathclyde, UK *

Author Bio

Bryce Evans is Associate Professor of History at Liverpool Hope University, UK. This is his fourth book, and he has published extensively on food during the 20th century.