Textiles and Gender in Antiquity: From the Orient to the Mediterranean

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This volume looks at how the issues of textiles and gender intertwine across three millennia in antiquity and examines continuities and differences across time and space with surprising resonances for the modern world. The interplay of gender, identity, textile production and use is notable on many levels, from the question of who was involved in the transformation of raw materials into fabric at one end, to the wearing of garments and the construction of identity at the other. Textile production has often been considered to follow a linear trajectory from a domestic (female) activity to a more commercial or industrial (male-centred) mode of production. In reality, many modes of production co-existed and the making of textiles is not so easily grafted onto the labour of one sex or the other. Similarly, textiles once transformed into garments are often of unisex shape but worn to express the gender of the wearer. As shown by the detailed textual source material and the rich illustrations in this volume, dress and gender are intimately linked in the visual and written records of antiquity. The contributors show how it is common practice in both art and literature not only to use particular garments to characterize one sex or the other, but also to undermine characterizations by suggesting that they display features usually associated with the opposite gender.

Reviews

[Textiles and Gender in Antiquity] is a great resource for in depth knowledge and studies of Antiquity, textiles, and gender. * Journal of Dress History *
This essential volume provides a much-needed study of textiles, dress, and gender in the ancient world. With its wide chronological and geographical range, it provides students and scholars with useful information from the ancient Near East to late antique Rome in a series of essays that look not only at clothing and textile production, but also at how these categories were almost always cast in terms of gender in antiquity. -- Kelly Olson, Professor of Classical Studies, University of Western Ontario, Canada

Author Bio

Mary Harlow is an Associate Professor in Ancient History at the University of Leicester, UK. She has published extensively on Roman dress and has been an editor and contributor to several of Bloomsburys Cultural History series including Children and the Family (2010), Dress and Fashion (2017), Hair (2018) and Shopping (2019). Ccile Michel is a Senior Researcher at CNRS, Archologie et Science de lAntiquit, France and Professor of Assyriology at Hamburg University, Germany. She has published books and studies on women, gender studies and ancient textiles including Textile Terminologies (2010 and 2017) Wool Economy in the Ancient Near East and the Aegean (2014) and The Role of Women in Work and Society in the Ancient Near East (2016). Louise Quillien is a Researcher at CNRS, Archologie et Science de lAntiquit, France. She defended her PhD on Textiles in Mesopotamia, 1st millennium BC: manufacturing techniques, trade and uses in 2016.