Dancing the Wave: Audacity, Equilibrium, and Other Mysteries of Surfing

(Paperback)

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Description

Why are growing numbers of young people taking up surfing, spending hours floating silently on their boards, studying wave patterns, ready to risk serious injury for a few moments of harmony with the ocean's force Because, according to the author of Dancing the Wave, there is no more fulfilling and profound experience. This unique book interweaves history, mythology, and personal experiences to introduce the reader to the sublime and spiritual art of surfing.

Reviews

The ocean's presence is always in me; I never feel separate from it. Surfing is a martial art, a spiritual discipline of body and mind. In the sea, you always have to be ferocious, quick, and violent; and fluid and serene--as it is. You sound your own depths in the ocean.

Author Bio

Jean-Etienne Poirier is an avid surfer, skier, and skateboarder, as well as a journalist and cultural anthropologist. He has consulted for international aid organizations, and he lectures on travel themes and mountain climbing.