The Rise of the Stylist: Subculture, Style and the Fashion Image in London 19801990

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The Rise of the Stylist examines the social factors that contributed to the stylist becoming a key role in fashion image-making. The 1980s' stylist is presented as a cultural intermediary and auteur, as commercial compass and avant-garde innovator.

Focusing on London from 1980 to 1990, Philip Clarke draws on oral history interviews with the young creatives who were involved in the specific subcultural scenes, educational environments and new modes of publishing that informed a unique moment in British cultural life. By documenting the history of the stylist in fashion and dress, as well as their contribution to fields such as food photography and car manufacture, this study looks beyond the style press and bridges the gap between production and promotion.

The Rise of the Stylist defines the specific nature of the stylists role in relation to that of other creative occupations and locates discussion of styling within the context of postmodern society, where political shifts, technological developments and changing attitudes in all fields of cultural production are reflected in the manufacture and dissemination of fashion.

Reviews

The Rise of the Stylist by Clarke is a focused look at the stylists growing recognition in British fashion publishing at a certain moment in time (p. 2). The investigation of Clarke is laid out in six chapters, supplemented by an introduction, a conclusion, 16 color plates, and, most notably, an appendix with brief biographies of the 18 people interviewed for the book and transcripts of three interviews... Recommended. Advanced undergraduates through faculty; professionals. * Choice *
The fresh immediacy of this work captures and reproduces the energy and liveliness of the stylists who contributed to 1980s fashion design. Weaving together the voices of stylists themselves with detailed political, social and cultural analysis, this work is a must for anyone interested in 80s street fashion, subculture, clubbing, representation and image politics. -- Peter McNeil, University of Technology Sydney, Australia
An absorbing and much needed deep dive into the emergence and establishment of the fashion stylist in London in the 1980s. Through visual analysis of styled editorial and adverting images and original interviews with key players in British fashion, Clarks academically rigorous research offers a new and fascinating insight into the role and contribution of stylists in a significant period in British fashion publications. * Shaun Cole, Winchester School of Art, UK *
An incisive, accessible study of how the stylist became a pivotal player in fashion image-making. Essential reading for people seeking to understand the culture and people that defined one of the most important roles within the contemporary fashion industry. * Dr Benjamin Wild, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK *
Every image you see has been styled - conceived, considered and constructed by a host of, for the most part, anonymous imagemakers. Finally a book that acknowledges and unpicks the role and impact of the stylist as a modern, pop culture phenomenon. Clarks tribute to the profession makes for a elucidating read that brings together politics, postmodernism and a whole lot of personal style. * Professor Iain R Webb, Kingston School of Art, UK *

Author Bio

Philip Clarke is course leader of the Fashion Communication pathways at Central Saint Martins, London, UK. His teaching and research interests centre on visual communication and image-making in the field of fashion, focusing on the role of the stylist. Philip has authored chapters in Architecture Filmmaking (2020) eds. Troiani & Campbell, and Fashion Stylists: History, Meaning and Practice (Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2020) ed. Lynge-Jorln.